To have a good time the 100 yr anniversary of the current Danish/German border in 2020, an excellent pal and I made a decision to hike the 84 kilometre path referred to as Gendarmstien, or The Gendarme Path. It follows the japanese a part of the border on the Danish aspect and is roughly comprised of the identical paths the previous border patrol – the Gendarms – used to police the world from 1920 to 1958 to stop smugglers bringing in items to Denmark with out paying tax.
The path gives sights of each historic significance in addition to scenic and was the primary route in Denmark to obtain the European High quality Path certification. The 84 kilometre mountain climbing route is split into 5 phases, however could be accomplished in 4 days and even much less. You encounter many enjoyable info about Denmark, its historical past, geology, wildlife alongside the best way.
An important route, bordering to excellent! Try the path with map ultimately of the article for extra sensible info.
Stage 1: Bjergetapen / Mountain stage
The primary leg of the path known as Bjergetapen – Mountain stage – due to the various hills and ravines that have been created over the last ice age 10.000 years in the past. The tunnel valley was fashioned by meltwater that ran in tunnels below the ice and washed giant quantities of clay, sand and rocks out in entrance of the ice the place it deposited. You possibly can see the outcome at present within the type of the wealthy clay soil, the steep slopes and gorges in addition to the various springs, lakes and streams alongside the trail.
From deep ravines to charming meadows, by way of deep inexperienced birch forests and alongside a shoreline dotted with lovely villas and mansions, this brief stage delivers contrasting views. Particularly Kollund Forest is awe-inspiring with its costal forest. We saved an eye fixed out for the black woodpecker, which is present in solely a only a few locations in Denmark at present. Related in measurement to a crow, the black woodpecker is a formidable hen with a robust beak that may strike a tree 20 occasions in simply 2 seconds! Lots of the timber within the forest bear witness to its visits, and whereas we noticed the various holes, the woodpecker itself didn’t reveal itself.
The stage ends in Sønderhav after solely 15 kilometres, starting at Padborg Practice station, so its attainable to reach by practice within the afternoon and get began on the path. We, nonetheless, had begun the hike a bit earlier and walked one other 3,5 kilometres to spent the evening in a cabin close to Rønshoved.
Superior variety!
Stage 2: Tegletapen / Brick stage
We spent the evening in a captivating cabin at Naturlejrpladsen close to Rønshoved and wakened prepared to overcome the following stage of Gendarmstien; Tegletapen, or Brick stage. We began by strolling previous a monument to the primary Danish Queen; Margrethe I, as she is meant to have died on her ship simply off the coast again in 1412.
In any other case, this 20 kilometre stretch was clearly outlined by the various brickworks (as many as 76!) that operated on this space. As a result of the Ice Ages deposited the best clay on this space, it grew to become the inspiration for brickworks courting again so far as to the Center Ages. When a brick was broken throughout the baking course of, it was both tossed out into the firth or used as basis for the various jetties. This implies, that the seashores alongside the path are full of clean brick stones in all sizes.
The “capital” of the brickworks was Egernsund, the place we crossed the bascule bridge and admired the brickwork sculptures simply off the bridge, while devouring a sizzling canine from the native sizzling canine stand. The city was dwelling to a bunch of artists throughout the time when the world was a part of Germany. From 1880 to 1920, the Ekensund Artists’ Colony was Germany’s model of the Danish “Skagen Painters” and created many lovely artworks.
The day was completely lovely for mountain climbing, and we washed away the journey mud within the firth after we’d arrange tent on a primitive (and free!) camp at Brunsnæs. Sitting collectively across the campfire with fellow hikers and exchanging tales and laughs was an ideal strategy to finish an ideal day!
Little did we all know, that the following day was going to be radically totally different.
Stage 3: Krageetapen / Crow stage
The third leg of the Gendarmstien path is known as Krageetapen, or Crow stage. (Sure, it IS a crow sitting there!)
In Danish, a distant place known as “the place the crows flip again”. Generally it felt like the rationale for the title of this stage..
You CAN go for an evening’s keep on this architect designed shelter. One evening will set you again DKK 300,- / EUR 40,- however has an indoor fire!
This stage of the path is serene, solitary and sandy. If the climate had been higher, it could’ve provided many probabilities for a dip or two.
The route alternates between coastal trails and roads alongside the various grainfields. As a peaceable, life-giving vein, the firth blends into the panorama.
Within the 1200s, a pirate referred to as “The Crimson Ons” resided at Skrækkehøj. Right here, surrounded by pure embankments, lay a pirate fort, and lots of harmless individuals have been held captive within the murky basements.
The third leg of the Gendarmstien path is known as Krageetapen, or Crow stage. Not (solely) as a result of we traverse the again of the past of the peninsula Broagerland (in Danish, a distant place known as “the place the crows flip again”) but in addition as a result of the trail goes by way of the world referred to as Kragesand (crow sand).
We wake to the dripping sound of rain on the tent and put the kettle on for espresso, whereas we look ahead to a vivid spell. When that doesn’t occur, we pack collectively our stuff as greatest as attainable and head out on the path, grateful for our raincoats.
This stage of the path is serene, solitary and sandy. If the climate had been higher, it could’ve provided many probabilities for a dip or two. The route alternates between coastal trails and roads alongside the various grainfields. As a peaceable, life-giving vein, the firth blends into the panorama. However within the previous days, when the ships left the protected ports heading for the Baltic Sea and past, many risks awaited. Within the 1200s, a pirate referred to as “The Crimson Ons” resided at Skrækkehøj. Right here, surrounded by pure embankments, lay a pirate fort, and lots of harmless individuals have been held captive within the murky basements.
These tales add color to an in any other case gray and moist day with some vivid spells. It’s great to soak up the solitary fantastic thing about the panorama whereas we stroll, and any rain gloominess is chased away with singing and speaking about essential in addition to unimportant stuff.
What a good way to reaffirm friendships!
We hiked a bit additional than the outlined leg of 19 kilometres, with a view to arrange camp at one other (free!) primitive campsite and handle to arrange tent throughout a vivid spell. To take a seat below the canvas and put together the dinner over a small fuel burner, whereas the rain is gently tapping was extraordinarily fulfilling and really cosy!
Every thing simply tastes higher after a 24 kilometre hike!
Stage 4: Strandetapen / Seaside stage
After a morning dip and shut contact with at present’s theme, we’re prepared for stage 4 of Gendarmstien: Strandetapen, or Seaside stage. This leg of the journey offers ample likelihood for bathing. If solely the climate had been nicer..
We stroll previous the historic Dybbøl Banke, the place the Danes took a beating by the German forces again in 1864 and ended up dropping Sønderjylland – the southern a part of Denmark – for 56 years. The previous windmill Dybbøl Mølle stands sentinel over the panorama, that also bears its mark from the historic battle, and an attention-grabbing museum 1,5 km. from Gendarmstien tells the story concerning the difficult and catastrophic battle.
We attain the gorgeous metropolis of Sønderborg and savour an excellent cup of espresso earlier than strolling the harbour promenade in the direction of the imposing, medieval fort Sønderborg Slot. Town is alive with individuals and it’s a vibrant distinction to the solitary mountain climbing we’ve been doing the final couple of days.
The path follows the harbour and seashores earlier than, in and after Sønderborg. Then we enter the inexperienced cathedrals which are the Danish beech forests. The woodlands have been below stress within the Center Ages and ultimately, wooden grew to become a scarcity. To unravel the issue, the Duke declared ultimately of the 1600s, that farmers couldn’t marry till that they had planted timber within the Duke’s forests. Every farmer needed to plant 10 oak timber or 15 beeches and take care of them for 3 years, earlier than he may current his bride to the priest. This scheme continued for greater than 100 years, and to this present day there are nonetheless some locations referred to as “Groom’s avenues” and on Gendarmstien, you stroll previous “Groom’s oaks” alongside the roads.
The 19,2 kilometre Seaside stage ends in Høruphav, after a beautiful however moist hike with superb views. Whereas a bathe halted our hike for some time, we ready for the final stage of the path and accomplished 2 phases in 1 day.
Stage 5: Mølleetapen / Mill stage
The ultimate leg of Gendarmstien known as Mølleetapen, or Mill stage. All through the ages, there have been 75 mills on the island of Als, of which 10 have been watermills. A few of the mills have been destroyed by explosive fires, however a lot of the mills have succumbed to trendy occasions and at present there’s just one watermill and 4 windmills left on Als.
This final stage is barely 10 kilometres, and so we determined to hike it in in the future in succession of the Seaside stage. The truth that an excellent pal had joined us in Sønderborg and we may relieve ourselves of our heavy backpacks in her automotive, made us (suppose we have been) gentle and quick. As we have been strolling, we fist talked concerning the essential issues in our lives, then the unimportant issues and ended up simply silent and content material in one another’s firm, earlier than bursting right into a communal “Bohemian Rhapsody”, grateful for the dearth of viewers.
After Høruphav we trekked alongside a captivating seaside with cottages proper on the seaside and noticed many geese and birds on this stage of the path. The final kilometres went throughout streams and thru fields earlier than we reached the ultimate vacation spot, simply outdoors of the little city of Skovby.
Climbing is a good way to get in contact with your self, and a good higher strategy to get near your pals. These recollections we created throughout these days of each great and moist mountain climbing, will stick with me ceaselessly.
